Hubert Lamy, En Remilly, St. Aubin, 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2023

From a warm microclimate and vines largely planted in 1989 on hard limestone above Chevalier‑Montrachet and Puligny‑Montrachet Caillerets, the 2023 Saint‑Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has turned out beautifully. It rises from the glass with aromas of yellow apple, peach, pear and white flowers. Medium‑ to full‑bodied, open‑knit and textural, it is expressive and generous at the core, underpinned by racy acidity and concluding in a long, saline finish that reflects its high‑altitude tension and cut. Harvested between September 2 and 12, this cuvée also benefits from Lamy’s meticulous viticulture, high‑density plantings and extended lees ageing, making it unusually approachable in youth yet clearly built to age.